As we finished our wine, we decided that we would take another Tuk-Tuk ride to see the sites. Just as we decided what to do, a Tuk-Tuk shot down the road in front of us. Recognizing the driver, Christina called out to him. The timing was perfect, we had seen him about an hour earlier and asked him about pricing, but told him we weren’t quite ready for a ride yet.
The driver, who we later found out was named Alex, was a talkative guy from Brazil who was now living in Lisbon. Although, I knew where he had said that he was from, I was sure that I heard the distinct sound of a New York accent mixed in. I asked him about it, and he confirmed that he had lived New York for years! First as an exchange student in upstate New York and then university and work.
Aside from the Belém Tower, one of the other places that we wanted to visit was the Pastéis de Belém, which is said to have the best custard tarts in the Lisbon area. The only problem with going there, however, are the hoards of people who line up every day for the opportunity to try the best-of-the-best. Alex, like all of the other Tuk-Tuk drivers, has a special “jump to the front of the line tag” which allowed us to buy our treats without standing for hours in a long line. Yeah! (And the tarts were really good!)
We DID NOT have to stand in this line!
Located near the pastry shop, the Santa Maria de Belém Church is a site that shouldn’t be missed. The exterior is spectacular, but make sure to see the inside as well. There isn’t a fee for entry, but we did need to wait about 10 minutes in line, because they control how many people are in the building at one time. The church and the adjoining monastery and Belém Tower (pictured below) are UNESCO World Heritage sites.
We decided to start the day by checking out Lisbon’s well-known flea market, Feira da Ladra, which is located in the Campo de Santa Clara, a public square near the National Pantheon. It’s open every Tuesday and Saturday and has been in operation since the 12th Century. In the market you can find anything from old dolls and broken tiles to cork products and crafts (and everything in between). We also found an incredible tile store as we were walking around. Tile is heavy to carry…but that didn’t stop us from buying! I also found a pair of earrings that are made from espresso capsule pods. How do people think of things like this ? I must have the creativity of a slug!
One person’s trash is another person’s treasure! I love my “new” earrings!
After wandering around the flea market we continued to explore the area, and we found a little shop with a sign that said, ” Old Secret Pass to Pantheon.” I stopped and looked at the sign, and the store keeper asked, “Aren’t you going to ask about it?”
I took the bait, “Okay, tell me about the secret passage.”
He told us that the street that we were standing on didn’t exist de real hundred years ago, and that there was a “cut through” to get to the Pantheon which was now their shop.
He invited us in and showed us the cobblestone flooring which was part of the passageway, and he showed us an old wall, which has been left exposed to better see the old construction. He also told us about the earthquake of 1755, a brutal event that in combination with subsequent fires and a tsunami, almost completely destroyed Lisbon and the surrounding areas.
The sign caught our attention–Old Secret Pass to Pantheon”
We looked around the store and we noticed a little ceramic dish that was made to look like a man. The shop keeper asked if we knew the story behind the odd man, and we told him that we didn’t
The character was named Zé Povinho and was created by Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, a Portuguese artist known for his illustration, caricatures, sculpture, and ceramics designs. He created the popular cartoon character in 1875 as a representation of the working-class people of Portugal. Ze’ is a kind and friendly man to his peers, but he mocks and ridicules the elite class and government who rule by tyranny and injustice.
Zé Povinho is a popular character in Portugal and the ceramic dish depicts him giving a version of the “F@#k you hand motion on the front. When you turn the dish over, it’s clear to see what he thinks of those who try to control the working-class. We enjoyed the story, and the salesman sold three, as we each wanted one.
We followed the passage way through the store and ended up in a little restaurant that had outdoor seating and a great view of the Pantheon.
Yes please–wine with a view!
The National Pantheon was originally a church, but now houses the tombs of Portugal’s famous historical figures.
We’ve been eating well in Portugal. When we were in Sintra I had traditional Portuguese Cod cakes for lunch, and when we got back to Lisbon that evening, we opted for Italian. We went to a place near Christina and Sussie’s hotel called, Mercantina. We all ordered one of their specialty pizzas. I’ve eaten a lot of good pizza in my life, but this pizza was amazing!
In addition to cheese, ham, and arugula, the surprise topping was pistachios, if you can believe it! Pistachio is my favorite flavor of ice cream…but pistachios on a pizza? I just had to try it, and I’m glad that I did. After giving it a big of thought, it actually does make sense because nuts and cheese go well together. (And with wine—of course!)
The entrance to my hotel had two doors to walk through before stepping into the lobby, or of course the opposite way, stepping out to the street. One door said, “push” and the other door said, “pull.” It was written in plain English, and I still did the wrong thing every single time I tried to enter and leave the building. It drove me CRAZY! I finally had to put it to song…”First you push, push, push…then you pull, pull, pull!”
I finally decided that it was a great “people watching mechanism,” and I was able to humor myself on several occasions while I waited for Christina & Sussie to pick me up in the taxi. I would watch a person approach, and most did it the wrong way on the first try. Each one would step back, look at the door, and then shake their head. I imagined them thinking–this is the dumbest thing that I’ve ever seen!
First you push, push, push…then you pull, pull, pull!
After spending most of the day at the LxFactory, we decided to head back to our hotels to relax for a bit before heading back out again. Christina dropped us off, and then picked us up again when we were ready.
Our taxi driver, Christina, would stand out in a crowd with her long nails! We wanted to arrange for her to pick us up on Tuesday, but she already had an appointment scheduled to get her nails done. She said that she was going to get an ocean/beach theme. We couldn’t wait to see them!
Christina asked if we liked gin, and when we told her that we did, she told us that she knew the perfect place to take us. She had already made dinner reservations for us, and she thought we could have a before dinner drink at the Gin Lovers Bar & Restaurant. When we arrived, we found out that a special Fado event was happening, and that the bar was closed until the singing was over. It was scheduled to conclude at 8:00 p.m., the exact same time that we had our dinner reservation at a different restaurant.
We were disappointed, but Sussie sweet talked the guy at the door and she convinced him to let us into the bar, which was located behind the Fado room. We had to wait until the end of a song before we could enter, and as we waited we could hear the Fado music through the closed door. Fado is traditional Portuguese music that typically consists of a solo singer and a guitarist. The theme of the music is deeply nostalgic, often focusing on the harsh realities of life.
We were escorted to the back, and the gal behind the bar greeted us and began by asking which was our favorite gin, and about whether we preferred citrus, juniper, etc. She asked several other questions and then began making our drinks. I am by no means an authority on G&T’s, but she knew what she was doing! Our drinks were delicious!
I was actually disappointed when it was time to leave for dinner. Next time, I would plan to stay here longer. We headed out and walked about 7-8 minutes before arriving at our restaurant. The streets were filled with people, both walking and dining at little outdoor restaurants, creating a really nice vibe.
We shared an appetizer of fried fish cakes and we all ordered Bacalhau (salted cod), which is a typical Portuguese dish. Ours was roasted in olive oil and garlic, and served on a bed of cabbage with roasted potatoes on the side.
I wasn’t a fan, and it was the only dish that I had during my stay in Portugal that I really didn’t care for. I won’t rule Bacalhau out in the future, but this restaurant didn’t win me over. We had great wine, the fish cakes were good, and we had a wonderful evening in spite of the fish!
Christina, our taxi driver from yesterday, picked us up from our hotels and brought us to the LxFactory in the morning. She spoke English very well. She was really friendly and answered all of our questions about the area, and she filled us in on good places to eat and drink, and good sites for sightseeing.
The LxFactory is located in an old manufacturing complex nestled under the Ponte de 25 Abril Bridge. Framed in street art, it’s and indoor/outdoor market that’s home to restaurants, bars, artists selling their products, and kitschy shops that sell all sorts of stuff that you don’t really need, but you end up buying anyway! The FxFactory is a fun place to explore.
We got the market early and we were easily able to walk around from stand to stand, but within an hour the crowds started to pour in.
I laughed out loud when I saw a set of wood stumps tucked off to the side of the walkway. It’s hard to see in the picture below, but the little sign next to them says in English, “Seat reserved for those who gave their credit card to their better half.” Sussie, Christina, and I had fun weaving our way around the market. We all bought cork items (surprise, surprise!) and a lot of other things–jewelry, clothing, funny metal signs, etc.
Christina & Sussie deciding what to buy–more cork perhaps?
One of our favorite stores was the sardine store–yes, you read that correctly! The brightly colored store (pictured above) was filled, top to bottom, with sardine cans. We each bought a few to give as gifts. The “year you were born” cans were fun to read. While in the store, I dropped my coin purse, and a man graciously picked it up and returned it to me. I was so thankful.
Colorful Wall Mural
Chocolate cake, coffee, and Port wine–does it get any better than this?
After several hours of walking, shopping, drinking, eating, more walking, and even more shopping, we decided to go to Landau Chocolate to get the one and only thing that they serve–chocolate cake. The cake was dense, rich, and delicious. The coffee paired well with it, oh…and the port wine certainly added to the yumminess!
I talked to the woman behind the counter about their decision to sell just one item. She told me that years ago, their competitors laughed at the idea of only selling chocolate cake. They ignored the naysayers and their business thrived. Do something different–and you’ll always stand out!
At the end of the day, we called Christina to pick us up, and she arrived almost immediately. It was so nice to not have to jostle for a cab with all of the other people leaving the market!
After we finished lunch, we decided to take a Tuk Tuk tour around the city. Several were lined up at the edge of the plaza and we arranged a ride with with a guy named David. He was born locally and was a lover of history and art, which was lucky for us because he told us so many interesting tidbits as we were driving.
Before getting in the Tuk Tuk, we asked him where we should try Ginja. He pointed to a narrow road off the back of the plaza, and he offered to walk us to a little place that he knew. The side streets were too narrow for vehicles, so we took him up on his offer. We walked up and down a few streets before he stopped in front of a teeny tiny store front where we stepped into a very small room, about the size of a decent walk in closet. Including the store clerk, there were five of us in the room, and it was a tight squeeze.
David told her that we wanted to try a shot of Ginjinha, which is a Portuguese sour cherry liquor. Ginjinha, or sometimes referred to Ginja, is often served in a little chocolate cup. Okay, sour cherry and chocolate…doesn’t it already sound delicious? It was!
I don’t think we knew that he was already taking pictures, either that, or we were deciding if we were going to back out–we look so serious! LOL!One, two, three!I loved the Ginja, but the moment the chocolate cup went into my mouth…heaven! These pictures crack me up, because it looks like we didn’t enjoy the shot, but we did! So much so, that over the course of the next few days, we had three or four more!
After our Ginja tasting, we zigged and zagged our way down several narrow streets until we found ourselves back in the plaza where we had first started. David pointed out that the watering trough on the back end of the plaza was from the Roman occupation of Lisbon.
Photogenic Laundry
We opted for a 1 1/2 hour ride (which actually turned into two hours) because we wanted to catch the flavor of Lisbon on our first day. I’ve always felt that if you do some kind of touristy hop-on-hop-off kind of thing toward the beginning of the trip, it gives you an idea of the city layout.
Se’ de Lisboa–or The Se’
The Lisbon Cathedral is a Roman Catholic church built it 1147, making it the oldest church in Lisbon. It survived many earthquakes over the years, but what makes this structure so interesting is that as it was rebuilt and renovated so many times over the years, several distinct building styles were used including Romanesque, Gothic, and many others. The architecture was magnificent and I could have easily spent a few hours here looking at the details. However, there were hoards of people inside (which is an instant turn off for me) and David was waiting for us.
An Excavation Site of Roman Ruins–
It’s virtually impossible to capture the wonder of these Roman ruins in photos because (obviously), you can’t get close enough to get detailed pictures. David told us that the unofficial mantra of private property owners in Lisbon is, “Don’t dig!”
There have been countless cases of people who have bought and old home or apartment, and during the renovation process discovered an archeological site. Anytime something is discovered in the city, it needs to be inspected by the local government. If the find is deemed important enough, it can lead to huge delays and possible loss for the property owner. Don’t dig!
These tiles were on a building across the street from the Roman Ruins–Lisbon is so interesting!
Next, we headed to the Portas do Sol which provides a beautiful view of the Tejo River and the surrounding area. The São Vicente statue, the patron saint of Lisbon, can be found here as well. It’s a lovely area to walk around to capture the feeling of the city.
Prior to coming to Lisbon, riding on a trolley car was on my “list,” of things to do, but after seeing how most were packed like sardine cans, riding one quickly dropped to the bottom of my list. I enjoyed seeing them as we buzzed around the city in the Tuk Tuk. Panteão Nacional
After stopping for a brief look at the Panteão Nacional, our Tuk Tuk tour was over. We asked David to drop us off at a nice place to have a glass of wine. Unfortunately, I don’t know the name of the plaza where we stopped. The architecture was stunning! We enjoyed some wine, laughed and talked, and did a bit of people watching. It was such a relaxing way to end our first day together.
I could stare at this building all day long!
When it was time to find a taxi back to our hotels, Sussie enlisted a little help from the ‘Boys in Blue.’ We lucked out with our taxi driver. Her name was Christina, but that’s a story for the next post. When she dropped us off, we arranged for her to pick us up in the morning.
Shortly after I arrived at Christina and Sussie’s hotel, we decided to head out to explore the area, because their room wouldn’t be available for check-in until much later in the afternoon. We decided to take the subway to the Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon. We walked up and down a few of the narrow back streets and I was absolutely fascinated by the azulejo tile. Some of the buildings were completely covered with tiles, where as others had small decorative tiles near the doors and windows.
Here comes Christina! The hills of Lisbon reminded me of San Francisco!
This area of Alfama escaped major damage in the 1775 earthquake, which destroyed most of Lisbon. Many narrow streets can be explored from this starting point.
It was a really hot day, so after walking around for a bit, we decided to stop in the main plaza for something to eat and drink. I ordered, of all things, a grilled cheese and banana sandwich. I’ve never heard of that combination before, so I had to try it! I love cheese and I love bananas, so it sounded like a win-win. It was good!
Grilled Cheese & Banana–it was a first for me!
A big Ginjinha debacle in the plaza!
As we were eating, I glanced across the plaza just at the right moment to see a young kid careening out of control on a Segway. Just as I said, “Oh, no–he’s going to hit…” he slammed into a small stand that was selling homemade Ginjinha. The old woman who was manning the stand must have seen him, because she was able to move out of the way before the crash. The entire stand was wiped out and her wares (small bottles of ginja and chocolate cups) were strewn all over the pavement. Ginjinha, sometimes called Ginja is a Portuguese sour cherry liquor.
Another woman from a neighboring stand immediately started yelling at the kid, as the group he was riding with slowly made their way over to him. Nobody from the Segway group made a move to help her set her stand back up, and nobody checked to see if the boy was okay.
The group stood and stared at the mess for a long time, and they appeared not to know what to do. Before long there was lots of yelling. Were not really sure if they paid her for the damage, but it was quite a scene to watch from afar. You might say that we had dinner and a show!
